Monday, January 2, 2012
Apartments in Florence: Opening Windows
Pizza in Florence Part 2: Thin and Crispy
 |
| La Luna Pizzeria |
Permesso di Soggiorno: So They Do Ask For It...
If I were to leave the country and re-enter again and an officer asked me for the permesso di soggiorno, I could show the receipt from the post office as proof that I applied with the eight days of my entry stamp. So fold it up, staple or glue your receipt inside your passport when travelling in and out of the country just in case someone decides to do their job.
This happened in Amsterdam which adds Holland to my list of strict European countries where customs officers actually do their jobs. So if you find yourself in a legal grey area, avoid flying through London or Amsterdam to get to Florence; try Paris or Frankfurt instead.
Saturday, December 24, 2011
Visa: Family Reunion
It is not a stretch to say that "getting things done" in the most general of ways is easier in the US and probably Canada. All of us American citizens know that we can look online for information, call and ask a question or even head down to the main office and check things out. Most of the time we'll get the official line and not have to worry about whether or not it's right or wrong . We take this for granted until we move to Italy.
Based on what I experienced and questura horror stories I've heard, I'm going out on my limb to say that in my opinion, it is much easier to bring your fiance to the US and get married there. The registration, the license, the everything seems so much easier than doing it in Italy. You want to avoid the questura at all costs and if you are marrying in Florence it will become your second home.
When you marry in your home country you also have the advantage of being completely in your rights and not in violation of any laws. As an expat, in general, and especially if you are an illegal expat in Florence, the burden is on you to explain what in the world you are doing and that you are not getting married just to legalize yourself. At home it's no questions asked. You go to the registrar, pay your money and get your license.
State marriage laws vary but a quick check your state's website or an informational website will get you all of the information you need.
Once married, it's time for your visa. You need the following documents
Long stay visa application (available on consulate website)
One passport photo
Copy of Marriage Certificate
Copy of Spouse's Passport ( picture and signature pages)
Declaration from Spouse ( available on consulate website)
Italian Registration of Marriage - process varies by consulate but you will usually need to get a long form copy of your marriage certificate, get it notarized and stamped, take it to the Apostille office to get another stamp and then send it off to the comune where your spouse is a resident.
The only one that takes a bit of time to get is your marriage registration in Italy. It can take up to three weeks for them to register your marriage and send it the home address in Italy.
The family reunion visa is free, because you know, you're practically Italian and shouldn't take more than 2 weeks. It's good for 1 year and affords you all the rights of an Italian citizen. The right to work, pension, health care, residency etc.
Now you could go on like this for years but after 2 you may apply for citizenship, 3 if you and your husband live abroad.
Next step, move to Florence ...
Working Legally in Italy: Visa
The visa issue is almost like a nursery rhyme. You can’t get a work visa without a job and you can’t get a job without a work visa. It’s the hardest part of moving to Florence, if and how to get a work visa. Everyone has their own experience but if you are not already advanced in your career with a company that has an office in Florence or have Italian heritage with which you can obtain dual citizenship, it’s not easy to figure it all out. Many have tried, failed, and given up.
Down to the very basic law of it all, everyone who is not Italian or does not have citizenship in one of the European Union countries needs to have a work or study visa in order to work in Florence. Now down to the reality of it… many, many jobs are available with employers who just don’t care that much about that law. They would care if you were from Algeria or Senegal or Sri Lanka but an American or Canadian is harmless, wouldn’t hurt a fly or do anything wrong so they ignore the issue and pay you under the table. In general immigration laws are becoming more stringent across the European Union including Italy. There are bills circulating in parliament that will have heavy penalties for anyone hiring or renting to a foreigner without the proper documentation but because Florence is a town full of tourists and students, because Florence receives enormous infusions of cash from its visitors, the city seems to turn a blind eye to much of the “black market” jobs.
If you can’t get hired by an American company, have an Italian company that will sponsor you or if you have no possibility to get EU or Italian citizenship there are three basic ways to work legally in Italy;
Down to the very basic law of it all, everyone who is not Italian or does not have citizenship in one of the European Union countries needs to have a work or study visa in order to work in Florence. Now down to the reality of it… many, many jobs are available with employers who just don’t care that much about that law. They would care if you were from Algeria or Senegal or Sri Lanka but an American or Canadian is harmless, wouldn’t hurt a fly or do anything wrong so they ignore the issue and pay you under the table. In general immigration laws are becoming more stringent across the European Union including Italy. There are bills circulating in parliament that will have heavy penalties for anyone hiring or renting to a foreigner without the proper documentation but because Florence is a town full of tourists and students, because Florence receives enormous infusions of cash from its visitors, the city seems to turn a blind eye to much of the “black market” jobs.
If you can’t get hired by an American company, have an Italian company that will sponsor you or if you have no possibility to get EU or Italian citizenship there are three basic ways to work legally in Italy;
- Student Visa. A study visa allows you to work 20 hours a week but many employers will ignore the hours and hire you full time.
- Independent Work Visa. A non subordinate independent work visa which allows you to work as a contractor in Italy.
- Get Married. It’s that simple
Tuesday, November 29, 2011
Pizza in Florence Part 1: Thick and Doughy
Honestly it kind pains me to reveal this secret although it's hardly a secret to most but I like to think so sometimes. Cafe Italiano has the best pizza in town. As you are sitting squeezed between the wall and the strangers at the next table watching the pizzaiolo make your pizza and sing along to Britney Spears, you will think who in the world told me to come to this place. Then your pizza will come, steaming hot, with the overwhelming smell of fresh tomato and a high fluffy crust and you'll just know, I was right. You'll be amazed at how the crust melts in your mouth and at the taste of the fresh olive oil that was drizzled over it as it came out of the oven. You'll then understand why you waited half an hour for an uncomfortable table in this hole in the wall and paid 8 euro for a pizza margherita. With only three choices, you won't want to go to Cafe Italiano if you want a pizza topped with a ton of stuff but it's perfect if you want as authentic of a pizza as you can get in Florence. If you don't feel like waiting ( and there is always a wait) you can get the same pizza around the corner at Bistro SUD but it'll cost you one euro more.
Competing with my favorite place is Rosso Pomodoro. It's a chain restaurant that you'll find all over Italy and Europe but its origins are Napoletano. The Florence branch happens to be run exceptionally well by friendly staff and a great pizzaiolo. Pizza choices are not your run of the mill standards and they use locally produced ingredients.
My most recent discovery is La Beppe Fioraia. Not only is it a lovely restaurant removed from the touristic center, great for dates and groups, the pizza amazing. Gusto Pizza is another limited menu place with really authentic pizza. I'm begrudged to put il Pizzaiolo on my list because the service is the worst I've ever experienced. The atmosphere is cramped and not in a fun or interesting way, there is always a line and they rush you out of the place American style but I can't deny the pizza is good.
I've heard many people start to complain about Pizza Man because they have become a chain, opening many locations around town but there's no denying the quality of the pizza. The original pizzaiolo even completes in pizza making competitions around the world. All of the locations are outside the city center and worth the trip.
Saturday, November 19, 2011
Gucci Museum: Gucci Museo
Have to admit to being a bit disappointed by the Gucci Museo. The museum chronicles the luxury brand's most iconic creations from luggage to red carpet dresses to prints and leisure items but it lacks a sense of history. Perhaps the brand wants to distance itself from the crazy descendants of it's creator but that leaves non fashion buffs with no context. I expected a written history of the brand, pictures or video of artisans at work, famous people in Gucci. There are a few things here and there of that nature but mostly just bags and dresses.Unless you are a hardcore fashionista, skip the museum and go straight to the cafe and bookstore. Yes, the coffee is 3 euro but the ambiance is luxury and it comes with cookies and a Gucci logo shaped sugar.
Tuesday, October 4, 2011
Permesso di Soggiorno: A Day at the Questura - Part One
This post is a lesson in the art of il far niente which isn't always dolce. It's not all Julia Roberts sitting in a sun-filled Roman apartment blissfully reading the paper. It also means spending hours in a florescent bulbed, bland room surrounded by crying babies from every corner of the world waiting for a bureaucrat to finish talking to her mom so she get on with her job. After a trip to the post office discussed in the post Permesso di Soggiorno: Permit of Stay, you are given an appointment to go the questura with your passport, four passport sized photographs and all of your supporting documentation. If you miss your appointment for any reason, don't worry; I missed my appointment because I was sick, went out of the country and basically forgot about it. Five months after my initial appointment, I finally remembered that I'd better go get my permesso. One of the positives of things not functioning well is that you can get away with it on your end too.
Go early, 7:30 or 8 am and bring the paper with your appointment on it. You will stand in line and show one of the officers your paper. You get sent into a different line or get handed a number. You will get yelled at and abused. The carabinieri that work there really seem like the most dissatisfied and miserable people in the world. Once you have your number, if you are not one of the first you can go around the corner to Il Re Gelato to get a brioche or coffee. The numbers will pass by super, super slow. I was there at 7:30 in the morning and didn't get seen until after 12. I was given a little bit of grief for not coming during my appointment and was asked to come back with other documents. So basically nothing got done and it is very likely that nothing will get done after a whole morning there. My best advice is to be as sure as possible that you have everything although surprises can and will arise, hence my scheduled return trip.
Part Two to come ...
Go early, 7:30 or 8 am and bring the paper with your appointment on it. You will stand in line and show one of the officers your paper. You get sent into a different line or get handed a number. You will get yelled at and abused. The carabinieri that work there really seem like the most dissatisfied and miserable people in the world. Once you have your number, if you are not one of the first you can go around the corner to Il Re Gelato to get a brioche or coffee. The numbers will pass by super, super slow. I was there at 7:30 in the morning and didn't get seen until after 12. I was given a little bit of grief for not coming during my appointment and was asked to come back with other documents. So basically nothing got done and it is very likely that nothing will get done after a whole morning there. My best advice is to be as sure as possible that you have everything although surprises can and will arise, hence my scheduled return trip.
Part Two to come ...
Student Visa Renewal
Amanda Knox is Free
